The Grand Canyon is not there to entertain us… Apparently I was wrong.
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On May 30, 2016 at 6:22am I dipped into the Grand Canyon from the more remote North Rim. I have been to the canyon 13 times in my life for various visits and expeditions, but nothing like this one. On this day, a former student of mine and I would attempt to run from the North Rim to the South Rim in a single day. It would mark an adventure that had the ebb and flow similar to our brief time here on this incredible planet. It would push us emotionally and physically beyond anything either of us had ever experienced. It brought yet another perspective of how miraculous the natural world is and how we continue to ignore our place in it.
The weather called for partly cloudy skies with temperatures ranging from the high 40s at night to the high 70s during the day. We began our descent into the canyon with cool temps. The partly-cloudy forecast ended up being a few scattered clouds. That turned out to be our biggest challenge as the day wore on.
Though there are clearly parts that require walking, our goal was to run whatever distance we could for the entire crossing. For most of our descent and for the 15 mile route to the Colorado River we ran as comfortably as one could considering the steep terrain. We took breaks to refill our water supply and to keep our energy up by eating what we had brought with us. This was by no means a race so we enjoyed the journey and took an occasional picture as we made our way. We also took a detour to Ribbon Falls for good measure.
Once we crossed the Colorado things began to change drastically. Our nearly 10 mile ascent up the South Rim was like climbing out of the depths of hell. Temperatures along the bottom soared to the high 90s and there was no breeze or shade to speak of. Our thought was that if all went according to plan then we would finish the entire trip in about 6 hours or so. Nothing in the Grand Canyon goes to plan and I should have known this from my prior experiences. With the non-existent cloud cover, rising temps and dead still air, our body temperatures would no longer allow us to run. In fact, walking was beginning to be a challenge due to the extreme heat. We found ourselves in a bit of trouble and it came on very quickly.
Nothing in the Grand Canyon goes to plan and I should have known this from my prior experiences. |
From the campground at the bottom, to our next available water supply, was about 4.5 miles. There was a rest stop in between but we didn’t realize there was no water or we simply didn’t locate a spigot. We stooped in shaded areas to cool down. Luckily there was a creek running alongside us so we could soak our shirts, hats and bandanas to keep our cores cool enough to continue. Since it took longer to get to the next rest station than we had anticipated our water supply began to run quite low.
Once we reached the safety of Indian Gardens on the South Rim we rested and drank plenty. We ate and sat, contemplating our next leg which was 1.7 miles. Due to the extended length of time it was taking us to climb to the top of the South Rim, my food supply was running low. I anticipated some walking would be involved but as it turned out, we walked almost all the way up and at a very slow pace. Now, we were running on empty and still had 4.5 miles to reach the top.
My wife was smart enough not to join us and kind enough to camp with us on the North Rim and then drive to the South Rim to pick us up. She was expecting us around noon but we were running hours behind. My running partner had her phone and by some miracle was able to place a call from Indian Gardens to give my wife an update.
As we struggled towards the top, I paid close attention to my body temperature. The problem was that I was low on food. As a consequence began to bonk. My compadre at this point was just trying to survive as well. She was very conscious of where I was and waited for me periodically. She gave me some food but I couldn’t eat. Nothing was appealing but I continued to try and force something down.
I’ve often called the Grand Canyon a magnet for stupid people and now I was feeling pretty dumb myself. |
Sitting in the shade (when I could find it) became my routine. Others who were hiking back up were struggling as well. As I ascended closer to the top, more and more people began to pass me on their way down. Most of these folks were tourists with plastic water bottles they purchased from the gift shop near the lodge. They were wearing questionable footwear, no sunblock, no hats, and had no idea what they were embarking upon. They were being sucked in by the immensity of such a place and its unmatched beauty. It’s a trap. Going down is so easy and there’s always the intrigue of what’s around the next bend. In the mid afternoon heat I couldn’t believe how far down into the canyon I was running into tourists.
My running partner and I trained about 6 months for this trip. I put in a ton of miles to prepare for such an endeavor and still I was suffering. The hundreds of folks I came across going the opposite direction were not crossing in a day but we’re still ill prepared for what they were getting themselves into. I’ve often called the Grand Canyon a magnet for stupid people and now I was feeling pretty dumb myself.
I eventually crawled out (figuratively) 25 miles later at 4:30pm. The trip took more than 4 hours longer than we had anticipated. Walking out of the Grand Canyon and into the masses at the top is like leaving the moon and walking into Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. As I limped my way through the tourists to the lodge, most were oblivious to me. Eating ice cream, snapping pictures and buying trinkets was much more interesting than some dusty old guy stumbling towards them. Even one of the most sacred spots in all of the world has been reduced to a shopping mall.
About a dozen people die at the Grand Canyon each year. It’s a miracle more don’t. The absolute lack of respect for such a monumental place is staggering. Humility is nowhere to be found it seems. I once had a student say to me that she thought the Grand Canyon was boring. I informed her that the Grand Canyon was not there to entertain us. Apparently I was wrong.
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Photo courtesy of author.
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